My Aztec Broccoli Adventure

This year I’m growing a plant called huauzontle ( Chenopodium nuttalliae), also known as Aztec broccoli. It’s in the amaranth family and closely related to the weeds goosefoot, lambsquarter and pigweed, along with some cultivated plants like quinoa.

I mentioned it several weeks ago in this column when I wrote about identifying weeds. I planted it directly in the garden from seed. When it first sprouted, it looked very much like lambsquarter.

But now it’s big - almost four feet tall and still growing. It loves the heat, and it can take some drought. I’m growing it in a part of the garden near some French lavender, which I hardly ever water because lavender hates wet roots. The huauzontle is thriving, although it does require a little more water than the lavender.

So what’s it good for? The leaves can be eaten as a green. I’ve tried some and they are quite tasty. However, the leaves are small and I’d have to pick a lot of them to make a salad. So I haven’t really been growing it for greens.

In Mexico, this vegetable is grown primarily for its immature seed heads. These green seed heads resemble broccoli, hence the English name “Aztec broccoli.” A classic dish called tortas de huauzontle features these seed heads lightly blanched and then stuffed, or rather squeezed together with a type of firm, salty white cheese called queso panela. Then it is rolled in flour and dipped in an egg batter similar to chili rellenos. These “tortas” are fried in oil until the batter turns golden. Finally, they are served in a light tomato sauce.

I’ve been dreaming of this dish since I discovered huauzontle. There’s another variation called tortillas de huauzontle.

Instead of using the whole seed stalk, the seeds are separated from the stalk and then made into a flatbread or patty using flour, cheese, and egg. Again, they are served in a tomato sauce.

I haven’t gotten to try either one yet. My huauzontle is just starting to form the seed heads. Hopefully it won’t be long before I can report on their taste.

I’m really excited about this plant because it grows so well in our hot, humid summer climate. You could never grow true broccoli this time of year. But maybe huauzontle is a good substitute.